Starting spot-on tick treatment? Beware!

Starting spot-on tick treatment? Beware!

Tick bites can cause disease and infection on anyone, including your Morkie. But tick treatment for dogs, especially small dogs, can be worse!

Ticks can cause irritation and inflammation and even paralysis in some cases – but spot on tick medication can actually kill a small dog. The EPA has warned consumers since 2010 – don’t use these spot on tick treatments on dogs  under 20 pounds.

 

Tick treatments for dogs can be deadly. Literally.

 

Spot-on treatments like K9 Advantix and Frontline Plus work very well. The active chemicals in them are called neurotoxins — meaning they are toxic to the brain and central nervous system.

Neurotoxins work by hyper-stimulating the pest’s nerve cells to death. Although they’re supposed to work only on the pest, neurotoxins can build up in the pet’s organs over time, and not enough is known about their long term effects.

 

 

Likely to cause cancer for humans

Right on the label of the product – in very small type – it says most flea and tick products contain chemicals that are “likely to be carcinogenic to humans” according to the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency).

 

The EPA has identified at least 1,600 pet deaths over the past 5 years linked to spot-on flea and tick treatments.




The EPA also reports that spot-ons account “for more than half of ‘major’ pesticide pet reactions — incidents involving serious medical reactions such as brain damage, heart attacks, violent seizures and death.”

Back in 2010, the EPA warned the public about an alarming increase in pets’ adverse reactions to spot-on products.

 

The worst reactions were found in dogs under 20 pounds.

  • most adverse reactions happened in dogs younger than three years
  • often happened the first time the owner used a spot-on product

Although the EPA doesn’t know why, they believe some breeds are especially vulnerable to spot-on tick treatments. Those breeds are the:

  • Shih Tzu
    • Chihuahua
    • Miniature Poodle
    • Pomeranian
    • Dachshund
    • Maltese
    • Yorkshire Terrier
    • Bichon Frise

Further, mixed breeds seem more susceptible to adverse reactions from these products.

Alternatives to Spot-On treatments

In my previous post – Natural Tick Fighting Solutions  – I wrote about natural ways to fight ticks. You can also find some great resources here:

 

…or check my new book on Amazon.com


Today’s Resources:

EPA website: https://www.epa.gov/pets/epa-evaluation-pet-spot-products-analysis-and-plans-reducing-harmful-effects

 




How to remove a tick from a dog

How to remove a tick from a dog

Found a tick on your Morkie? Don’t panic, but do act quickly. Here’s how to remove a tick from a dog, quickly and safely, including how NOT  to remove a tick. Here we go.

How to remove a tick from a dog, even a Morkie 🙂

Be vigilant – check carefully

Run your hands over your Morkie’s body, feeling carefully for any small bumps. Gently part his coat to check visually.

Don’t forget, you’ll know it’s a tick because they have 8 legs. Only ticks and spiders have 8 legs.

You can remove the tick yourself, if it hasn’t attached itself to an inner ear, an eyelid or some other delicate location. Some people prefer to go straight to the Vet to have the tick safely and cleanly removed.

 

Ticks like to attach where there’s less hair – under the front legs, around the ears or on the belly.

 


Is your Morkie safe from lawn chemicals?

Lawn chemicals and your Morkie

Bingo, your dog has a tick!

tick on dog

Here’s how to remove a tick from a dog.

What you’ll need

  • tweezers
  • rubbing alcohol or iodine to clean up the bite area after you’ve removed the tick
  • water and mild soap
  • a small container with rubbing alcohol, to kill the tick and store it in case the Vet wants to see it later

Be very careful – any contact with the tick’s blood can transmit infection to your dog or even to you! Wear rubber gloves.

Tools to remove ticks can be very handy – if you have one in advance of your need. Some go on your keychain.

Gently but steadily pull the tick straight up

To start, pull your dog’s hair back and splash some of the rubbing alcohol around the area. It will help keep the area clean, and might temporarily stun the tick. Then use your tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible.

Start steadily pulling straight up. DO NOT TWIST OR TURN THE TICK. DO NOT SQUISH THE TICK.

Remember, the tick’s head is firmly embedded under your dog’s skin at this point. This head is barbed with backward-curving spines so it takes some pressure to pull it out.

Once the tick is removed, thoroughly wash your dog’s wound with water and mild soap and apply rubbing alcohol or iodine.

That’s it!

DANGER:  Commercial tick and flea treatments

The EPA has issued warnings that these treatments are dangerous for dogs under 20 pounds, who have the most adverse reactions to them. Read about an all-natural, safe alternative: “Magic Tick Fighting Dust.” 

It’s harmless to you and your pet and you can use it on your dog, the lawn, and in your home. Sprinkle some on your socks when you’re out hiking in the woods.

This is NOT how to remove a tick from a dog.

Don’t do any of these things:

Don't use this

Don’t use gasoline, nail polish or remover, vaseline jelly or anything else to try and make the tick pull its head out. It  can’t, even if it wanted to – the tick head is firmly embedded in his victim.

Don't squish

Don’t prick, squish or squeeze the tick to make him let go. You’ll just release harmful bacteria into your dog’s system if you make the tick vomit. And leave the head behind, in the victim.

Don't unscrew

The tick has not literally screwed itself under the skin, so don’t try to unscrew it. Reverse barbs on the tick’s feeder tubes hold it firmly under the victim’s skin.

No bare hands

Never use your bare hands to handle a tick – wear latex gloves.
You put yourself at risk of infection, and diseases like Lyme’s. Wash thoroughly after.

The tick’s head is still in  my dog!

Take a good look – if there’s still ‘something’ where you pulled out the tick, it could be the pest’s head. If so you have two options:

  1. Visit the Vet right away to have it cut out – your Morkie could end up with a couple of stitches.
  2. Wash the spot, keep it clean and watch ‘n wait.

The body has a natural way of removing foreign debris like this – you’ll feel a hard lump forming around your Morkie’s bite mark. That’s normal.

Eventually that skin will regenerate and the old skin will die. The lump will fall off, in several weeks to a couple of months.

Of course if the wounded area looks red or inflamed at any time, or starts to swell up, you need to see the Vet right away.

Read about 4 ways to fight ticks naturally, without using commercial tick medications, in my e-book Ticks on Dogs: Small Dog Nightmare.
Natural Tick Fighting Solutions

Natural Tick Fighting Solutions

Ticks on dogs are a nightmare – especially ticks on small dogs. Ticks carry dozens of diseases including Lyme Disease. But as ghastly as they are, there’s something more dangerous – commercial tick fighting treatments.

They can be deadly for small dogs. Luckily, there are natural treatments you can use instead.

Avoid tick hangouts

Don’t let your small dog wander through high grasses and uncut fields. Avoid walking in wooded areas. Ticks can be found in the foliage at dog parks and in your own yard.

And NEVER SIT ON A LOG! Experts say that sitting on a log for just 5 minutes means a 30% chance of picking up a tick!

Inspect, Spot and Remove

Examine your dog whenever he comes in; run your hands over him, feeling for small bumps. Ticks tend to latch on where there’s less hair, such as under the front legs around the ears or on the belly.

Here’s where ticks like to hide on your dog:




Keep ticks off your property

Clear any brush or debris off your property. Keep woodpiles well away from the house, and ideally off the ground.

Old lawn furniture or mattresses are an ideal environment for ticks. Keep your garden and yard clear of tall grasses.

If you decide to use a chemical treatment on your yard, here’s a list of lower-risk products:  www.greenpaws.org or at the Natural Resources Defence Council (NRDC) at www.nrdc.org

Natural Tick Fighting Powder

You can click to view (or download) this all-natural and highly effective tick fighting powder here.

Use it on your dog, on your carpets at home, in your dog’s bed or wherever you fear they might be ticks.

What’s worse than ticks on your dog? COMMERCIAL TICK TREATMENTS!

At least 1,600 dogs have died needlessly in the past 5 years thanks to spot-on flea and tick treatments! It’s a tragedy that shouldn’t happen.

Commercial products to repel ticks can be deadly. The insecticides in these products are poisonous. Let’s face it: they’re formulated to kill stubborn parasites.

The hardest hit: dogs under 20 pounds. 

Learn how to protect your small dog from the dangers of ticks – without poisoning him! Order today – Ticks on Dogs: Small Dog Nightmare.

Removing Ticks!

Removing Ticks!

 

The lowly tick is in the spotlight — thanks to growing concern about Lyme disease and a new awareness of all the dangers ticks can bring.

These nasty little creatures carry at least 15 common diseases, including Rocky Mountain fever, Lyme disease and others so serious you – or your dog – can die! There are countless other infections, bacteria and diseases that they also carry.

Ticks are hard to treat and control. They have the tenacity of cockroaches. Some types can live for more than a year without a meal.

They can wait on a small branch or stem for up to six months for a victim to walk by. Then they latch on and start their “blood fest.”

Ticks bite the victim, or ‘host,’ then burrow their heads under the skin. A barbed feeding tube syphons off the host’s blood. As they gorge, ticks expand up to 100 times their original size, filling themselves with blood. A tick that starts out the size of a poppy seed, can blow up to the size of a freakish grape after feeding.

Common tick, before and after feeding

 

Dog ticks removal

You can remove the tick yourself, if it hasn’t attached itself to an inner ear, an eyelid or some other delicate location.

Some owners prefer to go straight to the Vet to have the tick safely and cleanly removed.

It’s important to get the tick out within 24 hours of biting but don’t worry in most cases, the tick must be attached at least 36 hours to infect the victim with a disease.

You’ll need tweezers and rubbing alcohol or iodine and tweezers. The alcohol or iodine is for cleaning up the bite area after you’ve removed the tick. Plus you should have a small container filled with rubbing alcohol, to pop the tick in to kill it.

Be very careful – any contact with the tick’s blood can transmit infection to your dog or even to you! Wear rubber gloves. Gently but steadily pull the tick straight up

To start, pull your dog’s hair back and splash some of the rubbing alcohol around the area. It might temporarily stun the tick, and will also help keep the area cleaner. Then use your tweezers to grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible. Start steadily pulling straight up. DO NOT TWIST OR TURN THE TICK. DO NOT SQUISH THE TICK.

 

Remember, the tick’s head is firmly embedded under your dog’s skin at this point. This head is barbed with backward-curving spines so the tick is firmly embedded.  Once the tick is out, thoroughly wash your dog’s wound with water and mild soap and apply rubbing alcohol or iodine.

Store the evidence

Without touching the tick with your bare hands, drop it into a small container that contains rubbing alcohol (the alcohol will quickly kill the tick), and mark the date on the container.

Keep the container.

If your dog begins to show symptoms of a tickborne illness, your Veterinarian may want to identify or test the tick.

Follow up

Keep an eye on the area where the tick was to see if an infection develops. If the skin remains irritated or infected, make an appointment with your veterinarian.

Wash your hands thoroughly when you’re done.

 The tick remover tool

A special “tick remover” tool can be found online or in stores, sold as The Tick Key (which clips onto your key ring); the Tick Nipper (which has a handy built-in magnifying glass) or the Original TICKED OFF tool. Of course you’ll need to be prepared with one BEFORE you actually spot a tick, since time to safely remove the tick is short.

 

 

 


Want to learn more about Ticks on Dogs and the serious threat ticks pose to SMALL DOGS?

 

Check out my new Amazon book Ticks on Dogs – Small Dog Nightmare here – just 99⍧ for a limited time.

The war on ticks!

The war on ticks!

   Americans spend more than $1 billion each year on products designed to kill fleas and ticks on pets!

eeek a tick   Are we winning the war? Probably not; fleas can be a real nuisance for dogs, but ticks seem almost impossible to conquer.

They are super resistant to insecticides and can live for long periods without food. Like a science fiction nightmare, ticks latch on to their host and bury their heads in the flesh, drinking the victim’s blood. Blood is their only meal, in fact.

Ticks are terrible for small dogs; tick control can be even worse

Ticks are extremely difficult to control and prevent, even with the most effective products.

But what’s better? Heavy chemicals to keep ticks away, or the risk of tick bites and disease? These chemical treatments can really tax your small dog’s liver and other organs. Some products are safer than others, but let’s face it – these are powerful insecticides, formulated to poison life.

The battle is on.sad-morkie

There are four main commercial options for fighting ticks and fleas:

  1. Spot-on products
  2. Flea and tick collars
  3. Powders and sprays
  4. Oral medications

And there’s the option to vaccinate your Morkie against Lyme Disease, one of the main infections that female ticks can carry.

Not one of these options is good for a dog like a Morkie.  Why?

Morkies (and other small dogs) have the documented, WORST adverse reaction to spot-on products in particular. No surprise – these are basically killer insecticides.

The EPA’s findings

In 2010, after extensive study, the Environmental Protection Agency published its findings:

Danger

↓ the most commonly affected organ systems were skin, gastrointestinal (digestive), and nervous.

↓ small breed dogs were affected more than larger breeds for some products – one reason why – all dogs are given the same dosage of some of the treatments!

↓ most flea and tick products contain chemicals that are, in their words, “likely to be carcinogenic to humans.”  So what about small dogs?

The worst offender – spot-on products

These have been identified as the worst treatments for small dogs. We may think that the liquid dose we apply between the dog’s shoulders once a month is safe. The idea is that when he shakes, that dose of pesticide gets distributed throughout this coat. The problem is, it also makes its way throughout the dog’s entire system. And it’s poison.

So what can you do?

Read all you can about tick treatment. If you decide to go ahead, then:

  • be sure your dog gets the lowest possible dose
  • think twice before treating every year: you can get your dog tested for signs of tick infection instead. There is some research that shows treating annually is over-kill.
  • consider the non-toxic way to go: keep your dog away from environments where ticks thrive; clear your home and yard of dangers; inspect your dog daily and spot & remove any ticks; and test annually.

   To learn more about the potentially-deadly effects of flea and tick treatment on small dogs, you can check out my new book at Amazon.  It’s on for a limited time for 99 cents and you can read it on your Kindle, ipad, computer, laptop or smartphone.

ticks-on-android

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